yohji yamamoto aw26 | the perennial wanderer
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March 9, 2026
The wanderer found a sense of belonging within the cavernous halls of the Hôtel de Ville, shielded by the watchful eye of Yohji Yamamoto. His Autumn/Winter 2026 collection leaned into this nomadic spirit, blending a feeling of protection with the deliberate slouchiness of his signature silhouettes. The construction of the pieces felt like a journey in itself, defined by an extreme approach to layering that transformed the models into walking sculptures. The designer moved away from anything resembling a standard fit, instead piling garment upon garment to create a sense of safety and depth. Yamamoto reimagined the modern kimono in a way that managed to be both reverent and rebellious. Each look began with a stark foundation of signature black, providing a dark canvas for the vibrant prints of Katsushika Hokusai to emerge with sudden intensity. The nineteenth-century ukiyo-e icon was famous for his obsession with the natural world, and his energetic woodblock style brought a surreal, storybook quality to the heavy silk. These motifs, featuring everything from artistic flamingos to psychedelic stripes, were integrated into the silhouettes through meticulously constructed robes that appeared to defy conventional tailoring. Knotted fabrics gathered at the side of the body to... Read more »
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