Matilda on Tour - Stolac, Bosnia 🇧🇦 — Quiet Roads, Big Days and a Few Surprises

Wednesday 15 April — Stolac

Day 46 — Into Bosnia and a very different feel Bosnia & Herzegovina 🇧🇦

The day had come to leave Mlini and start our journey through Bosnia.

First job this morning — sorting the eSIM for Bosnia. Being without Wi-Fi and not being able to find the campsite or confirm we were on the right route… not our finest moment.

I’ve also planned the next four stops and checked each one George recommended to make sure it’s actually there and where it should be — and thank goodness I did… two out of the four weren’t!!

I’ve gone through the route as well, just to make sure it all makes sense. Basic stuff really, but you do start to trust your mate George when everything’s been going smoothly… and then we hit Bosnia and Montenegro. All good now.

After a long overdue Aldi shop, we’re well stocked for the week. It’s surprising how little we actually buy — if we’ve been out and grabbed a late lunch, we don’t tend to eat much in the van.

The drive to Stolac followed the coast for about an hour before heading back inland towards the mountains. We were still in Croatia at that point, and the road was in great condition — one of the main coastal routes, so an easy start to the day.

Turning inland, we crossed back into Bosnia. No queues at all — just us. A quick hop out of the van, passports checked, a couple of photos, and we were on our way again.

A short stop for coffee and fuel, then back on the road, winding through the mountains. A few tunnels, nothing too dramatic, and before long we arrived at the campsite — Camping in Heaven. A very fitting name.

The first thing we noticed was the silence. Just the sound of the river and birds.

It was completely deserted, but the power is on and the shower block was open. We expected someone would turn up at some point…

…and sure enough, before long someone did.

Elder, a local Bosnian, came over to see us. The campsite didn’t officially open until 1 May, but he told us to stay as long as we liked and use everything, including electric, at no charge. We were welcome to leave a tip.

He then invited us for a coffee. Richard chatted with him about the war. Elder wasn’t born until after it, but it was still really interesting — and quite sad — hearing about it.

The conversation moved on to hiking. With land mines still in the mountains, along with snakes and even the odd bear, I’m not sure we’ll be bothering.

There’s a lovely valley ride straight from the campsite. It looks like it could be spectacular… but it’s a bit of a climb.

I’m genuinely blown away by this place. It couldn’t feel more different to Mlini — quieter, wilder, and I love it.

Thursday 16 April — Stolac

Day 47 — A ride into the hills Bosnia & Herzegovina 🇧🇦

Looking outside this morning, there was a low mist covering the mountains. It didn’t last long, quickly lifting and leaving soft clouds sitting in the valley. Stunning.

It’s hard to describe how Camping in Heaven really lives up to its name — so peaceful.

It turned into a really good day.

Out on the bikes — coffee, SIM sorted in town, a quick stop at the bank — and then off we went.

I hadn’t really given Richard a proper brief about the ride… which became clear quite quickly. It started with a long climb up into the mountains. Nothing too steep, but just relentless. I don’t think he was loving me at that point.

We stopped for a quick regroup and had a chat about the route. Not long after, we reached the top, turned right, and joined a narrow single-track road out into the countryside.

Another steady climb took us right up to the top.

Then a drop down into a small village — goats, sheep, beehives, and two fields of pink flowers. Wildflowers maybe, but they looked incredible. We were so high above the valley floor, the views were amazing.

While we’d stopped looking at the beehives, Richard spotted a small turtle — he’s very good at that sort of thing.

It was a there-and-back ride, but the views on the way back were just as good.

Richard flew down the hills. I caught up with him as he’d stopped in the middle of the road - and there was what we thought was a snake… turned out to be a lizard. Another surprise.

We stopped in Stolac for a well-earned beer — it went down well. First properly hot day too.

Stolac really is a great place. Not touristy, but plenty of cafés and bars, and a nice feel about it.

Friday 17 April — Stolac

Day 48 — Hills, history and wrong turns Bosnia & Herzegovina 🇧🇦

Last night we spoilt ourselves — a great little restaurant about a mile from the campsite, right by the river.

Great food, what a setting — a lovely evening.

A windy night — mulberry catkins dropping onto the van.

Blue skies, warm sun, and plenty left to explore.

We headed out on the bikes again — another hilly one. The turbo definitely came into play.

The climb was worth it though. At the top it opened out into a lovely meandering lane, quiet and wide - just easy riding.

Then came the descent — a really good one — fast, flowing… and completely the wrong way.

We ended up on the M6, busy and loud, and pulled into a bakery for coffee and enormous chocolate croissants - not bad, £4 altogether.

A great ride back down the M6 — only 4 km to Stolac.

We came across the UNESCO-listed 15th-century gravestones and stopped for a wander — really quiet, except for birds nesting in the poplar trees, singing away.

Back at the campsite, I got chatting to a lady. She left as a refugee during the war and now lives in Norway, but still has her house here — she plans to return when she retires.

There’s a lot of history here — empty buildings, slowly rotting, and people who lived through it. It’s over 30 years since the war ended, but you can still feel it.

And yet, here we are — another fab day at Kamping in Heaven. How lucky are we.

Saturday 18 April — Stolac

Day 49 — A slower day in Stolac Bosnia & Herzegovina 🇧🇦

It’s amazing how green everything is. The bare trees on the campsite now have leaves — it really is so beautiful.

We’ve got a bit of a dilemma — itchy feet saying move on, but the weather forecast saying stay put.

We’d been planning to head inland, but it looks like we’ll take a big temperature drop if we do.

So instead, a wander into Stolac.

Lunch in the square — Saturday, so a few more people about, families and friends out relaxing.

After that, we walked up to the castle — a good climb, but worth it. It’s the largest fortress in Bosnia, with fabulous views of the town from the top.

Further along, the waterfalls, where we stopped for a beer. A lovely spot, water spreading out over the rocks — clearly shaped by hand, diverted for the old mills..

Above it, the remains of old dwellings built into the hillside — simple stone structures that have clearly been there a long time.

A funny sort of day really. Not the best, despite the heat and blue skies — but still good to be out and about.

Richard sorted the main thing - a bar for tonight's football.

Sunday 19 April — Stolac 🇧🇦

Day 50 — From Plan B to Front Row Seats _Bosnia & Herzegovina _

Today started a bit differently.

We had a plan, of course we did. The road was closed, so we switched to Plan B and headed for the hills. But the road was dead — no traffic at all.

Then it clicked. We’d stumbled straight into the**** Tour of Hercegovina.**** Pro riders, closed roads, that unmistakable race-day feel.

The best bit? We’d already cycled that climb out of Stolac a couple of days ago. It felt tough then - watching them today definitely put it in perspective 😅 Still ... we climbed it. That counts

And just like that, the day turned.

What was starting to feel like a bit of a disaster became one of those you remember. We carried on to the nature reserve — quiet, peaceful — and the whole mood shifted again.

Bikes off the van, an easy ride along quiet lanes, and a coffee stop (a rare treat on this trip). Back into the reserve for a wander, a few photos, no rush.

Then back into Stolac late doors, finishing at the Old Mill.

Hard to beat a day like that.

Stolac has been a good stop. Nothing showy, just a place that feels easy to be in. We came for a couple of nights and stayed six, which probably says enough. Quiet days by the river, a few bike rides, bits of history, and people who were always friendly. Simple, but it worked. Time to move on now — but we’ll look back on this one with a smile.