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  "description": "Mountain roads, snow, fierce bora winds, calm seas, a fabulous ride, and the first real signs of spring — a few days in Croatia that could hardly have been more different.",
  "path": "/matilda-on-tour-snow-sea-and-spring-sunshine/",
  "publishedAt": "2026-04-01T08:51:38.000Z",
  "site": "https://www.living-life-to-the-full.com",
  "textContent": "### Friday 27 March 2026 — Opatija\n\n**Day 27 — Mountains behind us, sea in front**\n _Kvarner Bay, Croatia 🇭🇷_\n\nBack on the road again today, which actually felt really good.\n\nWe hadn't travelled that far, but it was quite a tough drive — winding around and through the mountains, definitely the scenic route. The views were incredible, and as we approached our stop we could see snow-topped peaks with the city of Rijeka in the distance.\n\n\nIt already felt very different here — tucked between the mountains and the sea.\nBut that feeling dipped slightly when we arrived to find the site closed, with a notice saying it didn’t open until 1 April.\n\nLuckily, a lady arrived and said we could still park for the night, just without facilities. She wanted €25, but after a bit of negotiation we managed to get electric thrown in too.\n\nIt’s a small site, but the view is amazing, with the town close by and a coast path that seems to stretch on for miles.\n\nAfter lunch we headed out on foot and followed that path, walking around 2½ miles into Opatija. It was a really good walk — peaceful, with views out to the sea and across to the snow-covered mountains.\n\nAlong the way we spotted a couple of cormorants perched out on the rocks, watching the water below.\n\nThe town itself has a very different feel. It was developed during the Austro-Hungarian period, with the railway, power and running water all brought in to support the grand hotels.\n\nYou can still sense that now — the buildings have a slightly faded, almost royal feel to them. We did notice that quite a few of the older buildings are looking a little worn now, which adds to that character.\n\nWe stopped for a coffee and a bit of a sit down before heading back.\n\nBack at the van we sat outside, wrapped up against the cold, enjoying the view as the sun dropped behind the mountains, turning the snow a soft orange.\n\nThen the lights began to appear across the city, adding another dimension to the view.\n\n\n_We’re really enjoying the change of scene — not sure it’s cycling country though, those mountains look very steep!_\n\n###\nSaturday 28 March 2026 — Opatija to **Starigrad Paklenica**\n\n**Day 28 — A day that turned out very differently**\n\n _Kvarner Bay, Croatia 🇭🇷_\n\nIt was a beautiful morning — blue skies and the sea rippling gently in front of us.\n\nAfter a relaxed start, we decided it was time to move on. Time is ticking by, and we both felt the need to get going again.\n\nVery soon we were on the autoroute. I remember thinking it was going to be a nice, easy day.\n\nBut Garmin had other ideas.\n\nThe satnav took us off the autoroute and back to the coast, sending us up, down and round on an incredibly scenic route.\n\nWe stopped for lunch in a restaurant overlooking the sea — a lovely spot to pause before deciding which way to go next.\n\nIt was decision time.\n\nThe road heading up away from the coast looked the best option, so we followed Google.\n\nAt first, it felt like a great choice.\n\nBut the road climbed higher and higher, turning into tight switchbacks with steep drops on either side. I was not the most relaxed passenger even though Richard was taking it easy.\n\nAnd then we hit the snow line - we weren't expecting that!!\n\nSnow ploughs were out, the roads were clear and we just kept climbing — up and up — with incredible views but definitely not for the faint hearted.\n\nAfter reaching the top, the road wound its way back down and thankfully eventually brought us back onto an autoroute.\n\nIt was an easier drive and we made better time, passing through numerous tunnels, along a snow lined route - our first journey on a Croatian toll road. As we came out of the last long tunnel, the snow had gone — just like that.\n\nIt suddenly felt different again. Warmer, more Mediterranean, stony and dry. Hard to describe, but a definite shift.\n\nWe picked up a quieter coastal road for the final stretch, heading towards the site, fingers crossed it would be open.\n\nAnd then we arrived.\n\nWhat a place — one of those where you just say wow.\n\nWe’re right by the sea in a really quiet cove, a path snaking its way into the village and fabulous views all around.\n\nDefinitely looking forward to exploring tomorrow.\n\n### Sunday 29 March 2026 — Paklenica National Park\n\n**Day 29 — Wind, cliffs and a very strange “cry for help”**\n _Dalmatia, Croatia 🇭🇷_\n\nAn interesting night, as we felt the full force of the bora wind — a strong, cold wind that sweeps down from the mountains — rocking the van through the night.\n\nThe morning felt a little flat because of it, and we ended up having a slow start to the day.\n\nOnce we eventually got going, we packed lunch and headed to Paklenica National Park, known for its dramatic canyons and sheer limestone cliffs that rise sharply from the valley floor.\n\nIt wasn’t quite what we were expecting, but it turned into a decent challenge — around two miles uphill, climbing roughly 1,200 feet, steeper and rougher than we’d imagined for what we thought would be a fairly flat walk.\n\nThe canyon itself was spectacular, with sharp cliff faces full of different colours and textures. It’s clearly a famous place for rock climbing, and it was fascinating to watch people making their way up the rock and then abseiling back down. The hooks are fixed into the various routes, all numbered and graded.\n\nFurther on, we heard what sounded like someone shouting for help. It got louder and louder, and for a moment we really thought someone was in trouble.\n\nThen I spotted a goat high up on the cliff face.\n\nNot a person at all — which was quite a relief.\n\nIt was a slightly odd trail in one way though. For such a popular route, there was nothing to tell you when you’d actually reached the top — the mountains just stretched on forever, with snow on the more distant peaks.\n\nA really enjoyable afternoon .\n\nAfter the walk we drove down to the beach for a well-earned coffee before heading back to the site.\n\nSo peaceful - sitting outside the van, the sun slowly setting over the sea. The wind has finally dropped, it’s a little chilly, but a very pleasant way to end the day.\n\nMonday 30 March — Starigrad Paklenica\n**Day 30 — Calm seas, quiet roads, and a touch of spring**\n _Dalmatia, Croatia 🇭🇷_\n\n _What an absolutely fabulous start to the day — the bora wind had gone, the sun was shining, and there was barely a ripple on the sea._\n\nThe mat was out first thing — blue sky, still air, and the sun just starting to break through. Yoga… what a treat.\n\nWe took our time getting going but once the route was sorted, we set off, keen to get pedalling. The legs felt good as we hit the first hill, mountains in front of us and new views opening up as we climbed.\n\nIt was a there-and-back route, but we managed a really good stretch heading up towards the mountains. The views opened out as we went — quiet, wide, and one of those rides that just felt easy.\n\nCycling past we disturbed a brown snake basking on the road, soaking up the heat — a quick reminder to stay alert out here.\n\nThen we saw what looked like an old castle in the distance — grey, round, sitting on the edge of the headland.\n\nWhat a find. One of those places where you could just sit for a while and watch the world drift by.\n\nSigns of spring are everywhere — fig trees with leaves just bursting through, wild flowers lining the roadside, and blossom starting to appear on the trees.\n\nBack at the van, the afternoon stretching out ahead of us — time to relax, and just feeling grateful to have found this place.\n\nA late afternoon walk found us stopping for a couple of beers and some food.\n\nThe bar had that rustic feel — music playing, a bit of warmth from the heater, and just a really nice atmosphere to sit and relax for a while.\n\nIt felt like the perfect way to round off the day — that back-to-nature feel, with a lovely evening to finish.\n\nWhere next… Split tomorrow.\n\n_A few days that could hardly have been more different — mountain roads, snow, fierce winds, calm seas, a fabulous ride, and the first real signs of spring in Croatia. That’s what I’m loving about this trip. Just when you think you’ve settled into one kind of place, the road opens up and everything changes again._",
  "title": "Matilda on Tour - Snow, Sea and Spring Sunshine",
  "updatedAt": "2026-04-14T21:31:07.306Z"
}