Where to go and what to eat in Italy’s greatest food city

This city in northeastern Italy is the birthplace of the world’s favourite food (Picture: Alice Murphy)

Even by Italian standards, Bologna is big on tradition.

Birthplace of lasagne, balsamic vinegar and parmesan cheese, for centuries its terracotta-roofed trattorias have lured travellers with some of the finest food in the country.

Home to one of the world’s oldest universities, founded in 1088, this city of just under 400,000 is steeped in ancient history. Many of its squares, palaces and churches date to the fifth century, if not earlier.

But behind its porticoes and medieval towers is a refreshing blend of old and new.

A youthful hub of art, progressive politics and communal dining, you’re as likely to find a punk-fuelled anarchist bar as an opera house around every corner. One in three residents are students.

It is walkable. It is affordable. And, away from a small square in the historic centre, it is unspoiled by the overtourism that plagues its neighbour,** Florence**.

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Bologna is the capital of Emilia-Romagna, Italy’s most exciting food region (Picture: Alice Murphy)

Direct flights from the UK start from £26 in June, so it’s the place to go for a bargain.

Here’s everything you should see and eat in a weekend in Bologna, Italy’s underrated culinary capital.

Day 1

Touch down at Marconi Airport and zoom above the trees on the Marconi Express monorail, direct to Bologna’s central station. The journey takes less than 15 minutes and costs €13 for a single ticket.

Get your bearings with a stroll around the city’s main square, Piazza Maggiore, and the smaller Piazza del Nettuno, dominated by its giant Fountain of Neptune.

Just don’t spend too long here. The best of Bologna is outside the centre.

Bologna’s Fountain of Neptune, built in the 16th century, has inspired artists, car designers, and generations of locals (Picture: Alice Murphy)

Skirt around the corner and soak up the scene with an espresso at Casa Minghetti (€1), then dive into the past at Palazzo Pepoli, a palace that now houses the Museum of the History of Bologna.

Admission is €10, but if you have the appetite, it’s worth investing in the Bologna Welcome Card, which gives you free entry to the best of the city’s attractions.

Bologna is no Milan , but it still has a decent shopping scene. The best is around Via San Vitale, where vintage designer and pure cashmere sit side by side.

Griffe e Vintage is worth a look, as are the myriad beautiful bookstores. There seems to be one on every street.

Soak up the scene with coffee or an aperitivo at Casa Minghetti (Picture: Alice Murphy)

For lunch, all the travel guides direct you Mò! Mortadella Lab, purveyors of what is widely regarded as the best sandwich in town. It’s tasty, no question. But it’s also incredibly touristy.

The best-seller, No. 10, combines thin slices of mortadella – the pork cold cut speckled with white fat and, sometimes, pistachios – with smoked provola cheese and a couple of house-made potato croquettes on a fluffy roll (€7.50).

If it’s authenticity you’re after, skip that and head to Bolognina (‘Little Bologna’), a vibrant working class neighbourhood behind the main train station where gentrification hasn’t sunk its claws in just yet.

For a fully loaded panino, try Fermento. For a DIY picnic of bread, pastries and chocolate, independent bakery Forna Brisa. They do excellent coffee.

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Walk it off in Giardini Margherita, a 26-acre expanse inspired by classic English gardens. Kick back with an aperitivo at Vetro, then swing by Trattoria Bertozzi for a traditional (and highly rated) dinner.

Almost a mile from the centre, and far enough to be off the main tourist trail, the menu has all the stars of Bolognese cuisine: meat-stuffed tortellini in broth, tagliatelle ragu and bowls of friggione, a rich sauce of stewed onions and tomatoes.

To end the night, swing back into town for dessert at Cantina Bentivoglio, a vibey jazz bar on the historic Via Mascarella.

Bolognese vibes at Cantina Bentivoglio (Picture: Alice Murphy)

The tenerina (Emilia-Romagna’s traditional chocolate cake) is average, but the music more than makes up for it.

On second thoughts, just have a drink instead.

The best time to visit to Bologna

To beat peak season crowds and prices, consider visiting Bologna from April to May, or September to October.

Spring and autumn are great times to get the best of the city’s buzzy outdoor markets and piazzas.

Day 2

Break your fast with coffee and a pastry from Allegra bakery, then stretch your legs with an early morning walk beneath the arches of Bologna’s portico, the longest covered walkway in the world.

These ancient arcades, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021, are an integral part of the city’s identity.

Everyone knows about them, and everyone is proud of them, even if many could do with a lick of paint.

Bologna is home to the world’s longest covered walkway (Picture: Alice Murphy)

Follow the route (about three miles) out of the centre via the Porta Saragozza city gate – one of 12 built into the medieval city walls that have since been destroyed – and up the steps to the San Luca basilica. Construction of the current structure began in 1723, but a chapel has been there since 1194.

The views across the city, the verdant hills and the football stadium below are truly spectacular. There is a vintage land train called the San Luca Express if time or energy don’t allow, €12 for an adult return.

San Luca among the trees (Picture: Alice Murphy)

Back on terra firma, head to the Quadrilatero, Bologna’s oldest market and home to some of the best street food in Italy.

The halls of this medieval masterpiece sell everything for a lunchtime feast: fresh bread, homemade tortellini, sheaths of mortadella, cheese, cream-filled cannoli, regional wine, and giant, stuffed croquettes.

Mortadella and fried bread in the Quadrilatero (Picture: Alice Murphy)

If you can move, move on for a drink at Osteria del Sole. Since 1465, this old tavern has been serving wine to locals in its courtyard and garden which have barely changed in 500 years.

Taste dependent, catch a stand-up comedy gig under the porch at Bar Maurizio, or settle in for an opera at the Comunale Nouveau, opera’s temporary home while its usual abode, the 17th-Century Teatro Comunale, gets a glow up.

Your trip’s not over until the fat lady sings.

Where to stay in Bologna

For a solid base close to the train station, look no further than Una Hotels Bologna Centro, directly opposite the station entrance.

It’s an easy 1km walk to the historic centre and unlike many station-adjacent neighbourhoods, it’s clean, safe and full of decent restaurants. Double rooms from €89 per night.

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