I visited one of Italy’s busiest towns off season – with quiet canal-front rooms, hidden streets and £3.50 wine

DAUBED on an ancient wall, the curt sentence “All tourists are bastards” isn’t exactly welcoming – but it sums up a growing problem with tourists in one of the world’s most beautiful cities. In summer, it can be hard to move on Venice’s most popular streets, but visit in low season and discover quiet backwaters...